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1898 



New York 
Rogers Peer c^' Company 






Outfitters 



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"^ 2nd COPY, 

1898. . 



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COPYRIGHT MDCCCXCVUI 
BY ROGERS TEET & CO 



5574 



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The Table of Contents 

PAGE 

Coachman and Groom : Dress : Summer 
AND Winter . . . . -13 

Coachman and Groom : Undress: Sum- 
mer AND Win lER . . . .21 

Coachman and Groom : Wet Weather 

AND Cold . . . . .29 

Aprons ....... 33 

Butler and Second-man : Morning Af- 
ternoon AND Evening . -37 

Hall-Boy and Page , . . -45 

Terms 51 



The List of Pictures 



Frontispiece . 

Coachman's Body Coat 

Groom's Body Coat 

Great Coat 

Coat ok Whipcord 

Jacket of Whipcord 

Overcoat of Whipcord 

Mackintosh 

Aprons .... 

Butler and vSecond Man, Jacket 
Apron 

Butler's Dinner Coat . 

Second Man's Dinner Coat 

Hall Boy's Suit 

Page's Suit 



PAGE 
2 

12 

14 
16 

20 

22 

24 
28 
32 

36 
38 
40 

44 
46 



A Prefatory Note 

UNTIL the appearance of our little 
book in the Spring of 1897, there 
was no written authority on what 
men servants should wear. 

To make that book undeniably author- 
itative, we printed nothing except what 
both London and New York had tried 
and approved. Nor did we attempt to 
conform the book to our stock ; but, on 
the contrary, we conformed our stock to 
the book. 

With some slight revisions, and in a 
new dress, we again offer it, confident of 
its welcome — in default of anything better. 

Our stock comprises livery for both 
in-door and out-door men — complete to 
the smallest essential. 

Yes, it's ready to wear; but, "while 
we don't make to order, we do make to 
fit." At the few good livery tailors' you 



LIVERY 

would only pay more without getting more 
— often not as much. 

No, you needn't live in New York 
City to deal with us ; we fill orders from 
anywhere. 

And whatever you buy, you may re- 
turn, whether for fact or fancy, and 
get your money back ; may return it for 
alterations or exchange, at our expense. 

Put us to the test. 

IF we don't have it, we'll get it — will 
gladly estimate for stock-farms, ho- 
tels, clubs and others on application. 
Underwear is not livery ; but we have 
that, too, and everything else man or 
boy wears — see our general catalogue, 
sent on request. 



Coachman and Groom: Dress: 
Summer and Winter 



Coachman and Groom : Dress : 
Summer and Winter 

A COACHMAN'S coat should be 
somewhat longer than a groom's, 
and should have, in addition, flap 
pockets — rarely seen on a groom's coat. 

It should have six buttons in front, 
two at the waist behind, and two near 
the bottom of the skirt — the middle but- 
tons are omitted, so as not to wear the 
box-seat ; and as a coachman is not sup- 
posed to leave his seat, the omission is 
not noticeable. 

On the other hand, a groom's coat has 
the full six buttons behind, but only five 
in front — though six are not out of the 
way. 

These buttons should match the har- 
ness metal trimmings, unless the family 
be in mourning, when black becomes a 
necessity. 

A velvet collar is a matter of individual 
taste ; but a valentian sham vest must 
always be worn. 

Don't let your men wear accordion- 
13 



LIVERY 

like boots — the kind that fall down and 
disappear; but instead, stiff-legged calf- 
skin, with russet or white tops ; black, of 
course, if in mourning — the black is pro- 
duced by covering the boot-top with cloth. 

The breeches are usually made from 
white stockinet ; made so that the upper 
button comes just below the knee-cap. 

Trousers, when matching the coat, are 
always permissible; preferable perhaps, 
on a stormy morning, but not so smart 
as top boots and breeches. The body- 
coat, by the way, should be shorter when 
worn with breeches than with trousers. 

The scarf most worn is of white linen, 
already tied (known as a plastron). It's 
a scarf easily washed. 

The scarf-pin should be "horsey" in 
character ; the collar, the regulation 
coachman collar. 

The hat, under ordinary conditions, 
must be silk ; but cockades should never 
be worn unless the owner is a member of 
the army, navy, or diplomatic corps ; 
shoulder knots, fancy collars and cuffs, 
are not in the best of form. 



IV 




LIVERY 

Gloves are ordinarily tan ; but for 
calling or park driving, they may be of 
white buckskin. 

A COACHMAN'S great-coat, when 
worn with boots and breeches, 
should come a trifle below the 
tops of his boots ; the groom's to the 
upper button of his breeches. When 
worn with trousers, the coats should be 
somewhat longer. 

As to buttons and flap pockets, what 
applies to body-coats applies to great-coats 
as well. 

Don't allow your man to wear the body- 
coat under a great-coat ; it's clumsy, and apt 
to bind his arms. A heavy double-breasted, 
collarless waistcoat solves the problem. 

While the dummy box-coat is not highly 
thought of, it is considered good form 
with a lady's open carriage to carry 
great -coats, carefully folded, hanging 
from the back of the seat, collar down— 
the men sitting on the skirts. 

Body-coats, blue, green, black, claret .... $22 oo 

Trousers g oo 

Body-coats, drab 25 00 

17 



LIVERY 

Trousers $io oo 

White stockinet breeches 17 oo 

Monogram or crest buttons, moulded, per 

dozen i o 00 

Large die for buttons 25 00 

Small die 1 5 00 

Buttons made from die, large, per dozen. . 2 00 

Small, per dozen i 00 

Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c. 

each, per dozen 2 75 

Scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per dozen.. 5 50 

This is our patent— a Punjab scarf that does not soil in putting- 
on, nor priclv the fingers. 

Cuflfs, per dozen $2 75 and 4 50 

Coachmen's flannel shirts 2 50 and 3 00 

Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50 

" Grip " 2 25 

White buckskin , 175 

Silk hat 5 00 

American calf, stiff-leg boot 9 00 

Boot-tops, assorted colors 3 00 

Black, cloth-covered 5 50 

White ooze skin 6 00 

Patent-leather carriage shoe , 5 00 

Great-coats of English box-cloth, lined 
with heavy plaid worsted, green, blue, 

black, claret, drab 50 00 

Cream 55 00 

Great-coats of American box-cloth, lined 

with heavy wool, green, blue, black ... 35 00 

Dummy coats 1 8 00 

Heavy-weight trousers 12 00 

Heavy waistcoat, with sleeves 8 00 

Bedford-cord trousers. 12 00 



Coachman and Groom : Undress : 
Summer and Winter 



Coachman and Groom : Undress : 
Summer and Winter 

UNDRESS livery is only another 
name for "whipcord," whether 
made into a suit with jacket, or 
coat with flap pockets. 

Trousers, or breeches and leggins, may 
be worn with either jacket or coat, but 
breeches and leggins are the coachman's 
preference ; and, for wear about the 
stable, when exercising horses, or in the 
saddle, they are preferable. 

A brown square hat should be worn 
with the jacket ; while with the coat either 
a square hat or a coaching hat may be 
worn — both are equally correct. 

For country use, it is, at all times, in 
good taste; also in town, with many of 
the traps used by men ; on a drag, when 
used for road purposes ; or on an omnibus, 
going to the station of a morning, and 
when taking the children and nurses for 
an airing. 

But, so much license is given this livery; 



LIVERY 

one's environment has so much weight, 
that it is next to impossible to indicate any 
hard and fast rules. We shall always be 
pleased, however, to advise, if the charac- 
ter of the trap and the conditions under 
which it is used are given. 

THE short top-coat of covert-cloth 
is the only proper overcoat for 
undress livery. 

Brown Oxford-mixed and tan suit, with 

jacket $24 GO 

With breeches and leggins, instead of 

trousers 2)^ 50 

Suit with coat 25 00 

With breeches and leggins, instead of 

trousers 33 5° 

Breeches 11 00 

Knee-strapping of buckskin 3 00 

Full-strapping 6 00 

Leggins 4 00 

Box-cloth leggins 6 00 

Trousers 7 5° 

Corduroy trousers, for stable use 4 5° 

Double-breasted heavy top-coat of covert- 
cloth 22 00 

Single-breasted medium top-coat of cov- 
ert-cloth 16 00 

Coaching hat (bell -crown), black or tan. . 4 00 

Square top, black, brown, and tan .... 3 00 
23 



L I \^ E R Y 

Whipcord stable cap $150 

Coachmen's flannel shirts $2 50 and 3 00 

Heavy tan shoes, lace 3 00 and 5 00 

Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c. each, 

per dozen 2 75 

Punjab scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per 

dozen 5 5^ 

Cuffs, per dozen $275 and 4 50 

Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50 

"Grip " 2 25 



Coachman and Groom : Wet 
Weather and Cold 



Coachman and Groom : Wet 
Weather and Cold 

UNLESS actually storming when 
leaving the stable, see that your 
coachman wears a silk hat, for he 
should always carry a rubber or mackin- 
tosh coat in the boot of the carriage, with 
a rubber hat-cover in one pocket and knit 
gloves in the other. 

If storming, either a high black cassi- 
mere or a silk hat, with rubber cover, may 
be worn — both are correct. 

Rain or shine, a large umbrella should 
be carried on a brougham, underneath 
the skirt ; the handle to protrude on the 
nigh side of the carriage. It is especially 
adapted for the use of servants going be- 
tween carriage and house doors. 

Coachmen's mackintoshes, roomy enough 
to go over the heavy box-cloth overcoat, 

black $15 00 

The same, white 25 00 

Selby (apron, $8 50) 24 00 

(See page 32.) 

Rubber coats, white or black , 5 oo 

29 



LIVERY 

Coach umbrellas $3 75 and $5 00 

Storm gloves 50 

Gloves, lined 3 00 

Storm cassimere hat 5 00 

Mackintosh hat-cover 2 00 

Rubber hat-cover i 25 

Rubber boots, knee 3 50 

Storm boots 4 00 

Furs : 

Gloves : Sealskin, colored coon, and 
bearskin. 

Capes : Goat, Moufflon, colored coon, 
and bearskin. 

Robes: Goat, Moufflon, colored coon, 
and bearskin. 

Prices vary so considerably from season to season, that we prefer 
not to make quotations ; but the prices will be as low, if not lower, 
than elsewhere. 



Aprons 




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Aprons 

APRONS are usually lined with a 
plain worsted. In the centre of 
the topis placed a medallion, for 
a monogram or crest ; to the under side 
of this medallion is fastened a strap, with 
which to make fast to the seat-rail. 

Four-in-hand or tandem aprons should 
strap around the waist and come to the 
ankle when standing — they're known as 
''Selbys." 

Aprons should generally match the trim- 
mings of a carriage. 

We have a pattern superior to any yet 
made in this country — it gives less room 
at the bottom and more at the top, so the 
wearer can sit on it. 

Robes to match English box-cloth great- 
coats, blue, green, black, drab, claret, 
and cream. Plain, with rounded cor- 
ners $30 00 

Cut with a gore directly in the middle 

— fit better and don't slip 32 00 

33 



LIVERY 

Robes to match, American box-cloth, blue, 
green, and black. Plain, with rounded 

corners $22 oo 

Cut with a gore 24 oo 

Aprons (with flaps and pockets) to match 

English box-cloth 40 00 

To match American box-cloth 30 00 

Summer robes, to match coachman's body- 
coat, in blue, green, black, or claret . . 15 00 
In drab 18 00 

Whipcord aprons, unlined 12 00 

Lined 1 8 00 

Selby aprons (coat, $24 00) 8 50 



Butler and Second-man : Morn- 
ing Afternoon and Evening 




^ 



Butler and Second - man : Morn- 
ing Afternoon and Evening 

OF a morning, vuitil after luncheon, 
the })lain black jacket or coat is 
permissible for the butler — a black 
one invariably; the ordinary turned-down 
or standing collar ; black calfskin or pat- 
ent-leather shoes — shoes that do not 
squeak. 

Permissible, we have said, but not so 
smart as the Tuxedo coat and low \vaist- 
coat. 

Neither is right at luncheon, should 
there be guests. 

What applies to the butler, applies to 
the second-man ; except that the butler 
usually waits on the table at breakfast and 
luncheon alone, so the second-man has 
little use for a Tuxedo ; though, if ever 
called upon to wait, the Tuxedo is what 
he should wear. 

Jackets of broadcloth, nun's-cloth, or 
white duck should never be worn in pri- 
vate service. 

37 



L I \ E R Y 

Black cheviot suit with jacket $15 00 

Black cheviot suit with coat 16 00 

Tuxedo coat and waistcoat 18 00 

Breakfast jacket of nun's-cloth 225 

White duck i 50 

Black broadcloth 7 00 

Green baize-cloth apron i 50 

Gingham apron, with bib 30 

White apron, with bib 25 

White apron, without bib 25 

Black satin and silk ties 50 

Shirts, per dozen $11 25 and 1 7 00 

Collars, per dozen i 50 and 2 75 

CufTs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50 

Noiseless house-shoes, kid or patent .... 2 25 

At luncheon, en faniille, a butler is 
dressed in his morning clothes; if there 
are guests, he should be dressed the same 
as when opening the door for afternoon 
calls, or waiting on the table at dinner : 
swallow-tail coat and white tie. 

In case a second-man is employed, the 
butler is not expected to open the door 
of an afternoon or evening. 

If guests are at dinner, white gloves are 
needed ; otherwise not. 

If you find it unnecessary to have a 
second-man, yet have carriages, it is 
39 



L I V E R Y 

quite correct (rather smart, in fact) to 
put your butler on a lady's carriage, es- 
pecially an oi)en one, for afternoon call- 
ing and park-driving ; but then he should 
wear the house-footman's livery with white 
gloves and silk hat; in cold weather, a 
great-coat to match that worn by the 
coachman (for prices see page i8). This 
coat is kept in the house, not stable — as 
should be all rugs used by ladies. 

Putting a butler or house-footman on 
your carria.ge, could never be taken as a 
sign that you have no groom ; for many 
ladies prefer the house-footman, no mat- 
ter how many servants they have. 

Dress-suit of. imported worsted $27 00 

White cotton gloves, per pair 25 

Dress bows,. per dozen I 50 

String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50 

AT dinner the. house-footman wears 
what, to the casual observer, would 
look like a dress-coat, except that 
it is ordinarily of a color, chosen as the 
family color — appearing in all liveries. 

The waistcoat should be of striped or 
solid color valentian or plush ; trousers 



4* 



LIVERY 

of the same material as the coat, piped to 
match the waistcoat. Coat collar may be 
of velvet — simply a question of taste. 
Shirt collar should be white — standing 
always ; tie white. Black calfskin, or 
patent-leather shoes — shoes that do not 
squeak. 

All the servants of the house should 
wear the same livery. 

Club servants dress as do house-foot- 
men. 

House-footman's suit of imported livery 

cloth, green, blue, black, or claret coats $20 00 

Trousers 9 00 

Waistcoats, striped valentian, all colors . . 5 00 

Plush 8 00 

Plain valentian 6 00 

Monogram or crest buttons, moulded, 

per dozen 10 00 

Large die for buttons..- 25 00 

Small die 15 00 

Buttons, made from die, large, per dozen . 2 00 

Buttons, made from die, small, per dozen i 00 

If we don't have it, we'll get it — will 
gladly estimate for hotels and clubs. 



Hall-Boy and Page 



Hall-Boy and Page 

A HALL-BOY'S coat is a button-to- 
the-neck coat, and should be kept 
buttoned ; so there is no necessity 
for a waistcoat in summer. 

In winter, for the same reason, any old 
heavy waistcoat may be used. This calls 
for a medium-weight cloth, one that can 
be used the year round — such as tricot. 

Other and thinner suits will be made 
if desired. 

Blue tricot suit $i6 oo 

Porter or hall-boy's cap i 50 

Collars, per dozen $1 50 and 2 75 

Cuffs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50 

Black satin and silk ties 50 

Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50 

Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25 

A PAGE should wear the " buttons " 
suit, morning, noon, and night ; 
a high, white collar, white tie, 
shoes of black calfskin or patent leather, 
and a cap matching suit when running 
errands. 

45 



LIVERY 

A page may do all the work of a 
second- man, even to appearing on the 
box of a carriage (see page 13) ; every- 
thing except wait on the table. 

The ''Buttons" of a private house, 
takes the place of the hall-boy in restau- 
rants, apartments and the like. 

Blue tricot suit $12 00 

Extra trousers 3 50 

Collars, per dozen i 50 

Cuffs, per dozen 2 40 

String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50 

Cap, blue . . . i 25 

Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50 

Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25 



Terms 



Terms 

ALL purchases are delivered free 
within one hundred miles of New 
York City. 

Mail orders to the amount of $20 or 
over, if fully paid in advance, are deliv- 
ered free to any point in the United 
States. 

Responsible persons, by giving city 
references, may remit after receipt of 
goods ; but may not have goods delivered 
free, farther than one hundred miles from 
New York City. 

In all other cases we send by express, 
with bill for collection. The express 
agent is authorized to hold the amount 
collected for C. O. D. packages for one 
day, and if you return the goods within 
that time, to refund the money paid for 
the goods and the expressage. 

Beyond the one hundred mile limit, we 
do not pay expressage, but pay for return 



LIVERY 

of money on C. O. D. packages. Should 
the express agent refuse to allow exami- 
nation, or to refund the money paid for 
the goods that prove unsatisfactory, re- 
turn them by express to us, and we will 
promptly refund the amount paid for the 
goods and the express charges. 
* Parcels weighing four pounds or less, 
may be mailed for one cent an ounce, 
and registered for eight cents additional. 
The ' post-office refuses parcels of more 
than four pounds. 

'. Return garments at our expense for 
alteration; we do not pay for local 
tailor's work. We make no charge for 
alterations. 

For your convenience when in the city, 
we have three stores on Broadway — one 
On the corner of Prince, one on the cor- 
ner of Warren, and one on the corner of 
Thirty-second Street. 

But please bear in mind that goods will 
not be delivered to your servants without 
a written order. 



Printed for 

Rogers Peet & Company 

under the direction of 

H. Ingalls Kimball 

M dccc xcviii 






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